P

Pec, 7–8, 72, 72n*

Peter II, Prince-Bishop of Montenegro, 150, 150n*

Petrovac, 147

Petrovic, Nicola, 149

Pius XII, Pope, 68

Ploce, 111n*

Podgorica, 140, 148

Porte. See Ottoman Empire, Ottomans

Princip, Gavrilo, 99–100

Pristina, 10, 11, 190, 197, 200

Providence, Rhode Island, 124, 125

R

Ragusa, 112

Rambouillet Peace Conference, 14

Rasputin, Grigory Yefimovich Novykh, 152

Ravanica, 115

Raznatovic, Zeljko (Arkan), 29

Rea, Captain Fraser, 188, 189

relief agencies, 25–26

Relja, Duro, 75, 76

Republika Srpska, 79

CLOG (a Theater-Controlled Route), 85

devastation in, 85–87

See also Bosnia and Herzegovina

Rijeka, 6n*

Roman Catholic Church, Roman Catholics

forced conversion of Orthodox Serbs to, 66

support for Stepinac, 68

Rose (Rose George), 30, 52, 83, 86, 99, 166, 205, 211

Rudoka Mountains, 12

Russett, Bruce, 128–129

S

Sanjak of Novi Pazar, 93–94, 226–228

Sar Range, 3, 11

Sarajevo

drug trafficking, 98

Holiday Inn, 89

"internationals" in, 92–98

memorial to Princip, 99–100

Oslobodenje (newspaper), offices of, 88–89, 100–101

postwar life, 89–92, 93

Sarajevo rose, 103–104

siege of, beginning 1992, 83, 89

Sri Lankans in, 91–92

Sava, Saint, 156

Sava River, 77, 79, 83

Serbia, Serbians

Albanians, hatred for, 9

Alexander I, King, 65

blindness, cure for, 7–8n*

cleansing (cis cenje terena), 19

Dubrovnik, siege of, 117–120

graffiti slogans, 74, 147, 192

Greater Serbia, dreams of, 108

Kosovo, religious heartland in, 8

Kosovo, violence in, reasons for, 194–196

Kosovo Cycle, 115

Kosovo Polje, Battle of, 39–40

in the Krajina (Croatia), 70–73

Serbia, Serbians (continued)

Lazar Hrebeljanovic, 114–116

Montenegro compared to, 137, 140

Muslim Serbs (from Sanjak of Novi Pazar), 93–94, 226–228

Muslims in Old Serbia, 8–9

NATO bombing, 14–15, 21, 86, 101, 200, 227, 229

salute, 84

Sarajevo, siege of, 89

Slovenes compared to, 62–63

See also Old Serbia

Seselj, Vojislav, 29

SFOR (NATO Stabilization Force in Bosnia), 85, 97–98, 168, 168n*

Shaw, George Bernard, 35

Shea, "Jamie," 102, 102n*

Shkumbinit RIver, 177

Shutego, Don Branco, 144–147

Sigurimi, 164

Sigurnost, 210

simultaneous yogic flying, 124, 125, 129

Skanderbeg (Gjerg Kastrioti), 170–171

Skopje, 15, 17, 25

Slavonia, 73n*

Slavs

Austrian dislike of, 5–6

ethnic sameness, 62–63

Slovenia, Slovenes, 6

Serbs compared to, 62–63

Sofia, 211

Split, 6, 110

Stara Planina, 212n*

Stari Most, 107

Stepinac, Alojzije

character, 65–66

Ustashi, relationship with, 68, 69

Sublime Porte. See Ottoman Empire, Ottomans

Süleyman I, the Magnificent, 41, 217, 218

Suurkula, Jan, 122–126

Sveti Stefan, 147

T

television, 28

Tetovo, 179

Theater-Controlled Route, defined, 85

Tigers, 29

Tirana, 164, 169–170, 176

"internationals" in, 175

Tito (Josip Broz), 111, 142, 197

Titograd, 6, 148

Topkapi Serai, 38, 46, 214, 215, 218–220

torpedo, invention of, 6n*

transcendental meditation, 124–126

Travnik, 87–88, 107

Trieste, 54

Turgenev, Ivan, 210

Turkey

Austria, influence of, 225–226

Bulgaria compared to, 216

U

UCK (Kosovo Liberation Army), 28, 190, 196–197

UN, ineffectiveness, 26

UN Refugee Commission, 94

United States, Americans

AFOR participants (Albania), 168, 177–179

bombing Serbia, 86

SFOR participants (Bosnia), 98–99

unwillingness to suffer casualties, 26–27

Urosevac, 192

Üsküdar, 214, 215

Ustashi, 29

Gestapo, relationship with, 64–65

Jasenovac concentration camp, 66–67

Lazar Hrebeljanovic's rings, theft of, 116

Stepinac, relationship with, 68, 69

V

Varazdin, 73n*

Vienna, Viennese

coffeehouses in, 35–36

croissants in, 36

Historisches Museum der Stadt Wien, 49

Ottoman influence, 42, 221

self-image as borderers, 53–54

siege of, 1683, 41–42, 43–47

VJ (Vojska Jugoslavije), 142

Vojvodina, 137n*

W

Westendorp, Carlos, 92, 97

White Eagles, 29

Whitehead, Robert, 6n*

Wilde, Oscar, 210

Winchester, Simon

an "international," 94

and Bloody Sunday Inquiry, 14

Bosporus, first to walk across, 213–215

decision to go to the Balkans, 1977, 4

decision to go to the Balkans, 1999, 14–15

decision to stay in the Balkans, 1999, 29

desire to view Kara Mustafa's head, 51

Gypsies, fondness for, 167

New Delhi, 1977 trip from Oxford to, 4–13

Y

yalis, 223–224

Yeltsin, Boris, 203

yogurt, first ever, 209

Yugoslav Special Police (MUPs), 17, 190–191, 200

Yugoslavia

Balkanization since 1991, 21–24

Federal Republic of, 137, 137n*

Tito's, 6, 111

Tito's, nostalgia for, 76, 102–103

Z

Zagreb, 63–64